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Rhubarb hunts a place beyond the pie |
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A sidelined crop recasts itself in the modern world
For rhubarb lovers, walking the rows of Allen Scholz's farm can be torture. Everywhere you look, beautiful pink-red stalks of this underappreciated plant have been cut down and simply lie in the dirt, ready to be tossed away.
Most are fine speciments with just a minor nick or scratch. They would make a perfect pie or jam. No matter. Modern rhubarb buyers demand pristine plants; even a tiny imperfection won't do. Scholz discards half his crop before it leaves his farm.
"They're absorbing the cost right out in the field," says Cindy Moore, manager for the Washington Rhubarb Growers Association, a farmers' co-op and one of the few remaining defenders of the vegetable (yes, it's a vegetable). "Talk to any of these guys. It'll break their hearts."
These are grim times for what remains of the nation's rhubarb industry. Certainly, there is no animus towards the stuff. When people think about it at all, rhubarb hastens nostalgia -- fond memories of summer pies, the sort Grandma might have made. In some corners, it is simply called "the pie plant."
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Date Listed: 2004-09-22
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Industry: Restaurants
Category: Product
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